The bulge in the wall of the blank is just reinforcement for the reducer. Get yourself a piece of dowel and whack it out. I've spent hours messing with hot water, bags of peas and shaking chicken bones at such joints and none of them work. I can't believe StanM recommended a hacksaw
Who actually has a home freezer of the size you can get a stuck beachcaster in? Nobody I know or would probably want to know! However the hot/ cold thing has worked on stuck sections for me and others - frozen peas on the male and a heat pad on the female - fnack, fnack in a Finbar Saunders style, I'm dreading the incoming replies - it's the simple physics of expansion and contraction - oh er missus - of the scrim and resins, NOT the carbon content.
Wonder if folk ever consider that they have pulled and pushed and twisted and god knows all what and that the joint simply reached a point where it was ready to come apart. Last resort try one of the old wives tale methods and then presto it comes apart. The outer female joint that gets the treatment is more or less the same material as the male spigot / joint. If one expands they both expand if one shrinks they both shrink. I kept my rod joints cleaned (only bit of the rods) and have never, ever had to deal with a stuck joint, well I have, often but other folks. Two of you, one hand above and one below the joint, twist slightly and pull.
A pennies worth of prevention.....is true. The hot and cold method can and does work Stan. It's a fact. As can taking off the butt cap. As can a jet of compressed air aimed up the sidewall
A pennies worth of prevention.....is true. The hot and cold method can and does work Stan. It's a fact. As can taking off the butt cap. As can a jet of compressed air aimed up the sidewall
Have a older century tip tornado Grand Prix which is prone to sticking together but is down to me been forceful and forgetting as only goes out now and again these days, push spigot past certain point ( using too much force) and it pops then I remember
Takes two people pull and twist
Have a older century tip tornado Grand Prix which is prone to sticking together but is down to me been forceful and forgetting as only goes out now and again these days, push spigot past certain point ( using too much force) and it pops then I remember
Takes two people pull and twist
The reason/theory behind the hot & cold is expansion/contraction caused by the temp change, but carbon rods are pretty much inert, so I can't really see how it would work ?
The reason/theory behind the hot & cold is expansion/contraction caused by the temp change, but carbon rods are pretty much inert, so I can't really see how it would work ?
The reason/theory behind the hot & cold is expansion/contraction caused by the temp change, but carbon rods are pretty much inert, so I can't really see how it would work ?
Scrim is a generic term chucked around and is bacially part of the carbon mat used in blank manufacture although the scrim can come in tape form 1-2inch wide to give certain charecteristics to a blank by being placed at strategic areas, ii.e. to stiffen the top 2-3ft of a blank.
Polymer resin, the so called two pack resin used to cover threads and decals becomes completely inert when cured. Want to remove it simple heat from a cig. lighter will thin and soften it. Steel once manufactured is inert but we know heat and cold can affect it, same for many plastics.
The reason/theory behind the hot & cold is expansion/contraction caused by the temp change, but carbon rods are pretty much inert, so I can't really see how it would work ?
Agree. Works great on a stub manifold - probably not so well on carbon-fibre, although heat would soften the resin and allow things to move around a bit...
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