Advice Fishing line/Shock leader colour?

[AndyA]

I would say use your 60Lb for the shock leader and the rig body, but I would go for a lighter trace/hook line of 20 - 30

I'll need to look at getting some crimp swivels in that case? The rigs that I've made so far have been from a single length of line.


I was going to ask about the recommended length of shockleader, is it generally twice the rod length?

 

[Trampster]

Sorry Trampster I meant diameter not sure why I typed strength lol
The Yuki Safu leaders I've been using are 15 metres in length so plenty of line still when I remove 8ft

I'm old school, still in the dark ages! I go by breaking strain rather than diameter.
Many folk have said you can't always rely on breaking strain or diameter accuracy on most lines anyway.
It would be good if tapered leader manufacturers mentioned the line diameter/strength at different points along the length.
Some do, but not many that I have seen.

 

[Trampster]

I'll need to look at getting some crimp swivels in that case? The rigs that I've made so far have been from a single length of line.


I was going to ask about the recommended length of shockleader, is it generally twice the rod length?

Yes, generally. You need a few turns around the reel spool (FS), the length of your rod, and whatever drop from the tip to your rig that you prefer to use.

I don't see why you need Crimp swivels. I don't use crimps apart from the Breakaway adjustable ones.
I just tie a loop in the rig body wherever I want the hook(s) on a basic flapper rig, and either tie the trace to the loop, or if you need a swivel, thread the loop through the swivel and pass the swivel back through the loop, then tie the required hook length to the swivel.
There is a theory that the less hardware used on a rig, the cheaper it is to make, and less to lose if you get snagged.

 

[Mr Fish]

Yes, generally. You need a few turns around the reel spool (FS), the length of your rod, and whatever drop from the tip to your rig that you prefer to use.

I don't see why you need Crimp swivels. I don't use crimps apart from the Breakaway adjustable ones.
I just tie a loop in the rig body wherever I want the hook(s) on a basic flapper rig, and either tie the trace to the loop, or if you need a swivel, thread the loop through the swivel and pass the swivel back through the loop, then tie the required hook length to the swivel.
There is a theory that the less hardware used on a rig, the cheaper it is to make, and less to lose if you get snagged.

Must admit for most flappers I just put two knots in the rig body and trap a swivel and beads between them.
Technically that’s creating a weak point although since my flappers are for flatties, whiting etc I’m unlikely to hook something that will trouble them.
Also a knot in 60 or 80lb line isn’t exactly going to be super weak.

It saves feckin about with crimps and springs and all the other crap…

 

[AndyA]

I'd sooner not have to buy crimps etc, so if a loop does the trick then I'm all for it Is it just a simple overhand loop?

 

[Trampster]

I'd sooner not have to buy crimps etc, so if a loop does the trick then I'm all for it Is it just a simple overhand loop?

I usually tie a figure of 8 loop. Another way is to tie a figure of 8 loop about 10cm long, cut one bit near the rig body which then leaves you with about 20cm to tie a swivel onto. I find it easier to tie a smaller loop and thread it through the swivel as I mentioned before.

 

[Mr Fish]

I usually tie a figure of 8 loop. Another way is to tie a figure of 8 loop about 10cm long, cut one bit near the rig body which then leaves you with about 20cm to tie a swivel onto. I find it easier to tie a smaller loop and thread it through the swivel as I mentioned before.

If I want short snood quick flappers I tie way oversized blood loops a suitable distance apart in heavier line ie 30lb, then snip them to make the snoods and no components needed apart from a swivel one end and lead clip the other.

Can also add Breakaway relay clips (ie sliding plastic bait clips held with a bit of rubber tube) in between to create a clipped down rig if required.

It did initially take a few practice attempts to get the hang of making the longer loops and to eyeball the correct distance between them, but I can mostly do it without too much faff now.

One caveat to that is blood loops in 30lb line are definitely a weaker link so it’s fine for smaller fish but do need to consider where/when to use them.
Wouldn’t be a good idea if bigger hounds were about, for example.

 

[Mushty]

Must admit for most flappers I just put two knots in the rig body and trap a swivel and beads between them.
Technically that’s creating a weak point although since my flappers are for flatties, whiting etc I’m unlikely to hook something that will trouble them.
Also a knot in 60 or 80lb line isn’t exactly going to be super weak.

It saves feckin about with crimps and springs and all the other crap…

About 30yrs ago I used that approach and nearly killed a fellow angler to my right as the rig parted during a cast and my 5oz lead passed him at shoulder height about 3ft away before skittering down the beach 40yds past him. Used crimped rigs ever since.

 

[Mr Fish]

About 30yrs ago I used that approach and nearly killed a fellow angler to my right as the rig parted during a cast and my 5oz lead passed him at shoulder height about 3ft away before skittering down the beach 40yds past him. Used crimped rigs ever since.

Fair enough but I’ve never had one part in thick line, nor do I fish where someone is three feet away from me.
Ideally I fish where there’s no people or I walk until there’s few people and I also make sure there’s no one behind me when I cast.
I get what you’re saying and it would make me think too, but it’s not a rig I’ve ever had an issue with, not that I do full on pendulum or power casting anyway.

 

[Mushty]

Fair enough but I’ve never had one part in thick line, nor do I fish where someone is three feet away from me.
Ideally I fish where there’s no people or I walk until there’s few people and I also make sure there’s no one behind me when I cast.
I get what you’re saying and it would make me think too, but it’s not a rig I’ve ever had an issue with, not that I do full on pendulum or power casting anyway.

Wasn’t digging ya mate
Just putting my experience to the forum and why I don’t do it.
The guy to my right wasn’t 3ft away either otherwise I would have hit him with my 13ft (fishing) rod, for info he was about 50yds away. Just sayin.

 

[Mr Fish]

Wasn’t digging ya mate
Just putting my experience to the forum and why I don’t do it.
The guy to my right wasn’t 3ft away either otherwise I would have hit him with my 13ft (fishing) rod, for info he was about 50yds away. Just sayin.

Ah I see what you mean. Yep no offence taken, it’s just not one I’ve had an issue with.
Then as I say it’s not a rig I’ve tried power casting (if I’m even capable of that!)

 

[welshtroutfisher]

Why not tie a stop knot using mono or powergum instead of crimps?

 

[LeighamFox]

Does the colour of your fishing line or shock leader matter at all?

I've just been looking online for some shock leader and my local Go Outdoors only has the Orange Ultrasonik 60lb in stock. Does the colour make any difference?

Carp anglers use fluro pink yellow orange and red boilies. Red yellow and green fake corn.
Then look at some of the bright painted lures and bright feathers used for mackerel salmon and trout.

If they take all that why would line colour be a problem.

 

[flappy]

Carp anglers use fluro pink yellow orange and red boilies. Red yellow and green fake corn.
Then look at some of the bright painted lures and bright feathers used for mackerel salmon and trout.

If they take all that why would line colour be a problem.

Although if you enter a hard fished carp and coarse lake you will get awful results..

 

[LeighamFox]

Although if you enter a hard fished carp and coarse lake you will get awful results..

Used yo fish on. White and pink great winter baits.

 

[Cwab]

Prefer yellow braid and mono mainline as easier to see on a night whilst fishing, like clear mono hook lengths for no particular reason but now only fish for cod in winter. Also mostly only fished one colour/pattern of shad on boat in summer but had a interesting conversation with a charter skipper on subject of colour of shad, his view was it should not matter but at times seemed to make a difference.

 

[LeighamFox]

Prefer yellow braid and mono mainline as easier to see on a night whilst fishing, like clear mono hook lengths for no particular reason but now only fish for cod in winter. Also mostly only fished one colour/pattern of shad on boat in summer but had a interesting conversation with a charter skipper on subject of colour of shad, his view was it should not matter but at times seemed to make a difference.

I don’t think fish see colours like we do more than likely shades of black to grey. We all know some days some colours work better than others. But I don't think it's the actual colour they see.

 

[LeighamFox]

More so than colour is the fish running into a tight line that spooks them. Hence on hard waters a lot of carp anglers fish slack lines.

Not possible in the sea or on a river though.

 

[flappy]

I don’t think fish see colours like we do more than likely shades of black to grey. We all know some days some colours work better than others. But I don't think it's the actual colour they see.

Not true.

 

[flappy]

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