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century spigots

Shirleycodlin said:
stan m

Post in thread 'Graphite rod joint lubrication'

Casker said:
So I've read quite a few older TSF threads/posts re the subject (and some other on-line advice), but not entirely consistent.

Peops mainly say "DO NOT" try any sort of filing/sanding on a tight joint - I definitely wasn't going to do that anyway !

Some say WD40 is OK, but others say “DO NOT” use WD40 - I'm not going to use !

Others say a “dry” PTFE lub’ (same as Teflon lub) is good e.g. GT85 – well maybe, but I’m not inclined right now !

One search suggested paraffin wax or carnauba wax (or a Teflon spray like GT85). I’m preferring the idea of a non-spray lubricant. Any...
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Oh I know sanding certainly isn’t the correct approach, I might yet give the PTFE a shot first.

But the only other rod I ever sanded I overdid and had to ‘correct’ with a thin layer of candle wax.
Which again I know is ‘wrong’ but it ended the fighting with the spigot and now I just pick the rod up and go fishing.
Once every two or three years it gets a little more candle wax, good to go.
I guess by rights I’m actually continuing the wearing process by doing that, but… have been using the rod for more than 20 years that way, possibly closer to 30 and it’s likely to last longer than me.

I’m not constantly buying and selling rods. If I buy a rod it’s because I want to use it and it gets used, then added to the dozen or so beachcasters that all get used on and off.
I’ve never actually sold a rod! So yes, if it was one that one day I’d move on, no I wouldn’t sand the spigot, but the only person that it will ever affect is me, so in this case I may well go down that route…
 
If you clean and dry the female section properly then clean off the male part properly.
Put ptfe lube on and start twisting the two parts together.... after a few minutes you will notice black dust deposits. clean them off and repeat... and repeat.... and repeat.
If you are impatient like me get a new green scotchbright and ptfe lube and wank in an up and down motion only, like you did when you were 15..... repeatedly.
No sideways or twisty wanking keep your strokes vertical, use tissue to clean up the mess you have created (like you used too!) then rewank.
If you are an expert wanker you check every couple of wanks to see if the female is snug!
 
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chesilpete said:
If you clean and dry the female section properly then clean off the male part properly.
Put ptfe lube on and start twisting the two parts together.... after a few minutes you will notice black dust deposits. clean them off and repeat... and repeat.... and repeat.
If you are impatient like me get a new green scotchbright and ptfe lube and wank in an up and down motion only, like you did when you were 15..... repeatedly.
No sideways or twisty wanking keep your strokes vertical, use tissue to clean up the mess you have created (like you used too!) then rewank.
If you are an expert wanker you check every couple of wanks to see if the female is snug!
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Ooh thanks Pete, yes I’ve got a few wank pads, I mean scotch brites, I like the sound of that!
 
Was having difficulty inserting a spigot on one of my new Penn rods. I followed advice from Stan M and chose one of his suggested lubes - butter, cos that was immediately available out of the fridge! - and after a successful, but v tight insertion and a lot of twisting of the rod sections and then cleaning (male & female parts) and then more twiddling and cleaning .. and.. and .. all was well. BUT a little way-on the blank sections locked ! However, I left them for a while, but testing occasionally and then, suddenly, one day the sections just simply pulled apart like there was never a problem ! The point I'm getting to is that I believe environmental conditions can/do also play a part in sticky carbon joints.

I've not done anything more since that "stuck" episode, BUT I am now very very careful not to press the blank sections together too tightly. So far so good - no more stuck section joints since and still easy insertions!

Edit: I do actually rub a soft pencil lead over my male spigots before connecting any blank sections these days: can't remember whether that was another suggestion from Stan M or someone else, but that's what I've adopted to do.
 
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A lot like the protective resin coating of their easily damaged screen printed decals, I firmly believe that this spigot lapping should be done by Century themselves before any rods or blanks leave the factory. It's frankly piss poor that the buyer has to finish the job themselves before use or risk having to negotiate a trip home with 14' of awkwardness. Get a grip of these two penny pinching isssues please Mr Chilcott !
 
Tomthewelshie said:
I have come to the conclusion that century rods are only suitable for growing runner beans in the garden. So much so I'm selling my pair of super match graphex and moving to a different brand of blank.
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I've gone over to afaw rods . Tournament match pros . Lovely blanks
 
The rods will have left the factory just fine and you shouldn't have to mollycoddle the things. I usually give such spigots a few wipes with some wet an dry on a block except I rotate the blank against the abrasive, keeps the spigot round. All sorts of dings and high points reveal themselves. Then I go for a lube like GT85 and lap the joints together with lots of cleaning off while sat watching the telly. You will probably find that the end of the male spigot has expanded more than the rest. I use a dry lube on spigots called Dri Slide which I use when tuning air rifles. Welcome to the World of Zippy owners who usually have to do this.
 
Sorry Alan T but I have to disagree with you. They are not fit for purpose when leaving the factory otherwise none on this lapping and lubricating faff would be necessary - it would have been done already ! It's not something I've ever had to do with Conoflex, Daiwa, Harrison etc so that proves the point. Century need to rethink their spigots. End of.
 
Being the owner of 1 or 2 zzipies, I can honestly say, I've never had an ill fitting spigot.
Guess I'm just lucky 😁
 
Topwater said:
Sorry Alan T but I have to disagree with you. They are not fit for purpose when leaving the factory otherwise none on this lapping and lubricating faff would be necessary - it would have been done already ! It's not something I've ever had to do with Conoflex, Daiwa, Harrison etc so that proves the point. Century need to rethink their spigots. End of.
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As I said you should not have to mollycoddle the things. If they didn't fit correctly when you bought them then you would walk away.
No problems with Harrison but my Conoflex Phantom has tightened up. All five Zippys have needed the treatment and all my rods live in a spare bedroom not in the garage. Agree there is something wrong with the design or the type of resin used there is no excuse and at the prices Century charge for rods you should get far better after sales service. The only Century I have is a custom built Tip Tornado Sport and I have had no problems with that but it never gets used anyway. Well past time for a massive clearout.
 
It was your opening statement of " The rods will have left the factory just fine" I was disagreeing with AlanT - there is a problem and they know it. Like Shirl I've had no issues with any of the many Zziplexs that I've owned or rebuilt for others but they have all been pre Century models. I've had many dealings with Century on freshwater rods and blanks, including the development of the Stealth range of doublehanded fly rods, and non of them have had issues that I have ever heard of. Yet when it comes to beach rods the spigot issues are common but the company has done nothing to address the situation - I find that both infuriating and very strange!
 
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nearly70ty said:
Funny that a big firm like Century seem deaf to these concerns, but at the end of the days as long as we keep buying them nothing likely to change
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It would seem they've lost a customer in Tom the Welshie and he can't be alone. I know UK sea rods are not the be all and end all in the Century business model but I would have thought these issues would have been corrected some time ago. Obviously not
 

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