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Graphite rod joint lubrication

Casker

Casker

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So I've read quite a few older TSF threads/posts re the subject (and some other on-line advice), but not entirely consistent.

Peops mainly say "DO NOT" try any sort of filing/sanding on a tight joint - I definitely wasn't going to do that anyway !

Some say WD40 is OK, but others say “DO NOT” use WD40 - I'm not going to use !

Others say a “dry” PTFE lub’ (same as Teflon lub) is good e.g. GT85 – well maybe, but I’m not inclined right now !

One search suggested paraffin wax or carnauba wax (or a Teflon spray like GT85). I’m preferring the idea of a non-spray lubricant. Any experience of carnauba wax please (OR, by any chance, anyone used bees-wax as an alternative) before I adulterate my new graphite rod spigots? (I happen to have some bees-wax already.)
 
I would say @stan m is your most reliable source of good advice, and has written posts about it before.

Personally, I can only go by my own experience. I had 2 sections of a new Conti rod that got stuck together 1st time out. Managed to get them apart eventually with the aid of 2 bags of frozen Peas. I put a very thin smear of Silicone grease on mine, and it has been fine since.
Pretty much put on a very thin smear and wipe most of it off again.
 
Casker said:
So I've read quite a few older TSF threads/posts re the subject (and some other on-line advice), but not entirely consistent.

Peops mainly say "DO NOT" try any sort of filing/sanding on a tight joint - I definitely wasn't going to do that anyway !

Some say WD40 is OK, but others say “DO NOT” use WD40 - I'm not going to use !

Others say a “dry” PTFE lub’ (same as Teflon lub) is good e.g. GT85 – well maybe, but I’m not inclined right now !

One search suggested paraffin wax or carnauba wax (or a Teflon spray like GT85). I’m preferring the idea of a non-spray lubricant. Any experience of carnauba wax please (OR, by any chance, anyone used bees-wax as an alternative) before I adulterate my new graphite rod spigots? (I happen to have some bees-wax already.)
Click to expand...

So what is the problem with the joint and what is the actual question ?
 
stan m said:
So what is the problem with the joint and what is the actual question ?
Click to expand...
Spigot very tight to insert and to twist (to line up guides). Will pull back out, but needs very considerable effort. The question is whether bees-wax is a good "dry" lubricant.
 
Casker said:
Spigot very tight to insert and to twist (to line up guides). Will pull back out, but needs very considerable effort. The question is whether bees-wax is a good "dry" lubricant.
Click to expand...
Beeswax will just clog things up depending on weather. Most of the methods you have mentioned in your post, to be honest, come from armchair experts who heard wee John say that Charlie told him this works etc etc etc.

I have had close on 60 years building professionally. I`ll tell you the correct method, whether you choose to do it or not is your choice entirely.

Any reasonable lubricant, 3 in 1 oil, even butter will be fine, 3 M lub is best. Put some on the male joint only. Insert into the female and twist, as if screwing in a fixing. A few turns, remove and clean the male joint. Fresh lube and repeat. Depends how tight but can take 7 -10 applications. The twisting action and lube allows the actual joints , internal and external to rub against each other and microscopic granuals of the carbon act as an abrasive. This method will give you a perfect fit. Depends on the type of rod but when fitted perfect there should be a gap of between 8-10mm (fly rod) up to 15 - 18mm beach rod. Once happy clean off internally and externally with something like meths.

Bit of an old wives tale that you cannot use sandpaper. Just about every joint ever made in the world is finished off with an abrasive but not by hand. Using a concentric grinder or whatever. I`ve fitted hundreds over the years using standard sanpaper or wet an dry but they were on a high speed lathe so no flat spots.

Have fun
 
stan m said:
Beeswax will just clog things up depending on weather. Most of the methods you have mentioned in your post, to be honest, come from armchair experts who heard wee John say that Charlie told him this works etc etc etc.

I have had close on 60 years building professionally. I`ll tell you the correct method, whether you choose to do it or not is your choice entirely.

Any reasonable lubricant, 3 in 1 oil, even butter will be fine, 3 M lub is best. Put some on the male joint only. Insert into the female and twist, as if screwing in a fixing. A few turns, remove and clean the male joint. Fresh lube and repeat. Depends how tight but can take 7 -10 applications. The twisting action and lube allows the actual joints , internal and external to rub against each other and microscopic granuals of the carbon act as an abrasive. This method will give you a perfect fit. Depends on the type of rod but when fitted perfect there should be a gap of between 8-10mm (fly rod) up to 15 - 18mm beach rod. Once happy clean off internally and externally with something like meths.

Bit of an old wives tale that you cannot use sandpaper. Just about every joint ever made in the world is finished off with an abrasive but not by hand. Using a concentric grinder or whatever. I`ve fitted hundreds over the years using standard sanpaper or wet an dry but they were on a high speed lathe so no flat spots.

Have fun
Click to expand...
Thanks most kindly
 
Casker said:
Brand new. I'm quite pleased fit is so precise, BUT needs a bit of lub' for easier handling I reckon.
Click to expand...

If it is giving you the problems you describe then it is not fitting precisely it`s not finished properly, or in old Scots, fucked. Screw it in using the method I describe and it will be perfect fit. (Zziplex and Penn are some of the worst for being sent out with fucked joints, Century not much better)
 
Casker said:
So I've read quite a few older TSF threads/posts re the subject (and some other on-line advice), but not entirely consistent.

Peops mainly say "DO NOT" try any sort of filing/sanding on a tight joint - I definitely wasn't going to do that anyway !

Some say WD40 is OK, but others say “DO NOT” use WD40 - I'm not going to use !

Others say a “dry” PTFE lub’ (same as Teflon lub) is good e.g. GT85 – well maybe, but I’m not inclined right now !

One search suggested paraffin wax or carnauba wax (or a Teflon spray like GT85). I’m preferring the idea of a non-spray lubricant. Any experience of carnauba wax please (OR, by any chance, anyone used bees-wax as an alternative) before I adulterate my new graphite rod spigots? (I happen to have some bees-wax already.)
Click to expand...
Just do what @stan m says.
 
stan m said:
If it is giving you the problems you describe then it is not fitting precisely it`s not finished properly, or in old Scots, fucked. Screw it in using the method I describe and it will be perfect fit. (Zziplex and Penn are some of the worst for being sent out with fucked joints, Century not much better)
Click to expand...
Well, at your mention of butter @stan m, I saw no reason not to try immediately (said 'dairy' being int' fridge). With several partial insertions and twisting actions, carbon-fines were clearly evident on clean-up rags. Already so so much better. 2nd rod joint still needs fairly precise alignment to get the end spigot inserted, but once "in" the spigot now slides nicely and can be twisted smoothly (for guide alignments) and un-installed equally smoothly so I'm leaving it just like that for now. Great stuff ! (And it is a Penn rod as it happens ! - it's my 2nd Penn; the 1st one had lovely smooth spigot jointing "out of the box". I will send Penn an email !)
 
Last edited:
Thought I`d add a wee tip to this thread. Forget all the wax and lubricants and the likes. Carry a lead pencil in your tackle bag. Before setting the rod up give a few runs down the male joint with the pencil lead and then rub it around the joint with the finger. All the lubricant you will ever need.
 
Casker said:
So I've read quite a few older TSF threads/posts re the subject (and some other on-line advice), but not entirely consistent.

Peops mainly say "DO NOT" try any sort of filing/sanding on a tight joint - I definitely wasn't going to do that anyway !

Some say WD40 is OK, but others say “DO NOT” use WD40 - I'm not going to use !

Others say a “dry” PTFE lub’ (same as Teflon lub) is good e.g. GT85 – well maybe, but I’m not inclined right now !

One search suggested paraffin wax or carnauba wax (or a Teflon spray like GT85). I’m preferring the idea of a non-spray lubricant. Any experience of carnauba wax please (OR, by any chance, anyone used bees-wax as an alternative) before I adulterate my new graphite rod spigots? (I happen to have some bees-wax already.)
Click to expand...
I use candle wax, not heated of course. I rub the side of a candle lightly on to a spigot. Never had any problems with this.
 
solehunter said:
I use candle wax, not heated of course. I rub the side of a candle lightly on to a spigot. Never had any problems with this.
Click to expand...
Many types of candle-wax these days, but I'm thinking you will be using paraffin-wax candles ?
 
stan m said:
Thought I`d add a wee tip to this thread. Forget all the wax and lubricants and the likes. Carry a lead pencil in your tackle bag. Before setting the rod up give a few runs down the male joint with the pencil lead and then rub it around the joint with the finger. All the lubricant you will ever need.
Click to expand...
This is exactly what I was going to suggest. Works a treat
 

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