Screw holes in transom

[Skutter]

Probably going to have a crack att fitting the new fish finder and transducer.

The current plan is to remove the old transducer an fill the holes with 6-10 Westin epoxy. Then probably fit a stern saver or similar - maybe even an adjustable transducer mount to avoid having to drill holes in the transom again when fitting the new transducer and future changes of transducer.

Been looking at a stern saver pad that sticks on via 3m pads and also two other sorts that are attache to the transom by screws.

The boat came with a fresh coating of anti fouling paint when I bought it. Should I remove the paint near the old screw holes before plugging them?

I know If fitting the sticky pad stern saver I need to remove the anti fouling paint over the area but is this still the case if I choose one I can mount with screws?

Thanks in advance for any tips / advice.

 

[Topwater]

What's your transom made of? I wouldn't ise self adhesive pads personally. I'd go for short self tapping ss screws and a bed of CT1

 

[Skutter]

its a fiberglass boat. Heard very good reviews on the stern saver with the 3M pads so long as it's mounted correctly but I am leaning more towards screwing something in possibly an adjustable one.

Main thing I need to know, not knowing much, is do I need to remove the antifouling paint around anywhere I a) fix old screw holes and b) screw something new in??

 

[Topwater]

So your transom is fibreglass covered wood? I'd thoroughly clean off any antifouling in the area your covering

 

[Mushty]

Would the transducer ping through the hull?
When I had a fibreglass boat I glued a profile of 100mm drain pipe just to one side of the bilge and fitted the transducer through an end cap. Filled the pipe with castor oil so the transducer would be submerged when the cap was fitted. I used to get a good scan at 20 knots and no risk of tearing the bracket off the transom

 

[Another Angle UK]

Would the transducer ping through the hull?
When I had a fibreglass boat I glued a profile of 100mm drain pipe just to one side of the bilge and fitted the transducer through an end cap. Filled the pipe with castor oil so the transducer would be submerged when the cap was fitted. I used to get a good scan at 20 knots and no risk of tearing the bracket off the transom

Just need to check the hull is single skinned not a foam sandwich type. I've a similar thru the hull set up on the kayak and keep meaning to do the same on the boat before I knock the transducer off. I had a close call launching the boat into 6 inch of water......