Answered Multi' reel spool tension adjust

[Casker]

I'm having difficulty getting head around spool "tension" adjustment - or more correctly, reel manufacturers' guidance versus anglers' guidance.

Anglers' guidance 1st: invariably it is to adjust "tension" knob to a just-noticeable amount of sideways shift on the spool. OK, but if a spool has any sideways float what does that have to do with tension?

General manufacturers' advice: this seems to me to be much more complicated. Generally it is suggested that spool tension has an effect re bird-nesting and also might best be adjusted according to end-tackle weight and "tension" knob adjusted with an end-tackle drop test! What does end-tackle weight matter when, according to anglers, the spool should be free to run (but not too sloppy) ?

So could anyone help by explaining, please, what sideways spool float versus "tension" adjustments are really all about in the real world ?

 

[goose]

Tension on the spool will slow it on the cast and reduce distance but is advisable for a novice or new multi caster. Slight side play allows the spool to run freely and spin faster increasing distance potential but will over run a lot more easily.

 

[wingnut55]

When I started beach fishing over 50 years ago, I had a pair of Mitchel 600p's, no mags or break blocks in those, you adjusted the spool tension by the knob, put the reel into free spool, and with the lead right up by the rod tip you let it drop to the shingle/sand while adjusting so you ended up with the lead gently but smoothly dropping to the beach, job done. All you then needed was an educated thumb..

But you have purchased a reel that has both Mags and blocks, the blocks are used in the initial part of the cast, then the Mags will take over, so you need to get the Mags set to prevent over runs, then your thumb does the last bit when the lead hits the water.

The spool tensioning knob is only used on modern reels to centre the spool, adjust till you have about a 1mm - 1.5mm bit of side play.

Multis are not for everyone, you may not be able to master them, if so, stick to mangles, they are supposed to be fail safe, not that i have ever used a mangle, nor want to.

Ian.

 

[wingnut55]

Thanks @wingnut55. (Actually the Abu 6500 hasn't arrived yet. I might have to reconsider my used-reel choice.)

Not trying to put you off Multis mate, they are not for everyone, but practise makes perfect, and unpicking birdies goes with the territory, but once mastered, are fantastic fishing tools.

Ian.

 

[Trampster]

When I started beach fishing over 50 years ago, I had a pair of Mitchel 600p's, no mags or break blocks in those, you adjusted the spool tension by the knob, put the reel into free spool, and with the lead right up by the rod tip you let it drop to the shingle/sand while adjusting so you ended up with the lead gently but smoothly dropping to the beach, job done. All you then needed was an educated thumb..

But you have purchased a reel that has both Mags and blocks, the blocks are used in the initial part of the cast, then the Mags will take over, so you need to get the Mags set to prevent over runs, then your thumb does the last bit when the lead hits the water.

The spool tensioning knob is only used on modern reels to centre the spool, adjust till you have about a 1mm - 1.5mm bit of side play.

Multis are not for everyone, you may not be able to master them, if so, stick to mangles, they are supposed to be fail safe, not that i have ever used a mangle, nor want to.

Ian.

I'm t'other way, as you probably know! Can't get on with, & never used multipliers (except for boat work).
But an excellent explanation none the less.
The advice for my Quantum baitcaster reel says similar - adjust the reel spool tension until the weight/rig just drops smoothly to the floor.
Can't get on with that either! My thumb just refuses to be educated!

 

[wingnut55]

Thanks Dave. Just sad you cant do as much Angling as I know you would love to.

TIan.

 

[blakdog is back]

You really are starting to overthink this ...

 

[Topwater]

Obviously you've still not done much research or read the instructions These 'round baitcasters' were originally designed for casting relatively light and wind resistant lures for pike and salmon fishing. Only later were they adopted and adapted for beachcasting at range which requires an entirely different approach and therefore reel set up. Now get on with learning how to use it for yourself or employ a ghillie to cast on your behalf ffs

 

[blakdog is back]

The numbers are a relic of the days when the ambassadeurs were baitcasting reels and had spools with pressed in spindles ... on light lures you added tension to the end of the spindle with the cap to slow the reel .. ignore them as the principle doesn't work for UK surfcasting or live spool designs like the ultracast system on the Elite.

From your previous thread last Wednesday .... seemingly forgotten 2 days later?

Maybe, but it now makes sense why the "Tension Knob" is so called when so many folk avoid any direct spool tension.

I do wonder why I bothered wasting my time previously explaining this very subject quite frankly.

 

[Angrybear]

Bait casting multipliers for spinning you adjust the end caps to just support the lure weight in free spool, but knock/slap the rod handle & the weight will drop.
Beach multipliers are a different beast altogether, due to the weights used the caps would need to be very tight to support them, so they're set to just give a fraction of movement, & I mean a fraction, 0.5-0.25mm,
Casting tension is set with a mix of centrifugal brake blocks, magnets (if fitted) and bearing oil.
If you're a newbie you'll need to start with quite a lot of brake, to control the speed & prevent blow-ups/birds nests, but with experience you'll learn to feather the spool during the cast.
It sounds like you're buying a used reel, make sure to start with it has both factory brake blocks & I'd clean the spool bearings in solvent & re-oil with factory oil or car engine oil, avoid 'rocket' type oil until you're capable.

 

[groundswell]

adjust till you have about a 1mm - 1.5mm bit of side play.

any more side play and the end cap would fall off, that's far too much side play

 

[blakdog is back]

Tension on the spool will slow it on the cast and reduce distance but is advisable for a novice or new multi caster.

It will only do that by damaging the spool bearings as it forces the alls to ride up on the sides of the races. It is not advisable to run a reel like that for anybody and is unnecessary as the magtrax can be considerably overset to the point that it becomes quite difficult to overrun if you try, especially if you have the later 6 block centrifugal system installed as well.

Even when used correctly on a fixed spindle spool with light lures it can be overdone ... a surprising amount of heat is built up on the spindle end during the cast which causes it to expand, causing damage to the spindle end and the cap. Also when heat builds up friction reduces so an increase in tension causes increased heat, failure to dissipate the heat can cause a loss of friction and an increase in spool speed ... rather than the slowing that you would expect. It's certainly not a sensible or reliable method to use on surfcasting gear with relatively heavy weights.

 

[Conofish]

any more side play and the end cap would fall off, that's far too much side play

Why is it too much? You mean the bearings won't last?

 

[groundswell]

Why is it too much? You mean the bearings won't last?

B*gger all to do with the bearings as soon as you have even the hint of free play anything else is pointless, lets be fair if it were a swiss watch it would be loosing an hour every minute

 

[Conofish]

Don't understand, always found best performance for my casting reels with bit of play about a millimetre.

 

[groundswell]

Don't understand, always found best performance for my casting reels with bit of play about a millimetre.

My take on the OP's question related to "in the real world" his comments not mine, I also note you called them "casting reels", mines are fishing reels, always were always will be

 

[Conofish]

All my reels 525 tourno mags/ 7ht mags Fishing reels, abu's casting reels, always had a millimetre play.

 

[Conofish]

Mr copping used my abu 6600w when i gave up, he best was 313yards with it and 30+ casts beyond 300 yards.

 

[Angrybear]

I just watched Neil Mackellow's reel tuning video his description is "set the caps so you can just feel the tiniest movement"

 

[Mike hemming]

Just put a weight on the end of your line and cast the fucking thing and use your thumb to stop the birdie , god sake it’s simplesssss